Presented here is a version of the traditional method of cleaning standard size (608) bearings. Alternate versions involve different solvents, thus different cups or shaker bottles. Different solvents may be necessary for certain lubricants (ex. acetone for solid wax).
skatelessons.com: bearing cleaning tutorial.
[why clean bearings]
[lube choice: another article]
[time: duration]
[list of tools and parts]
Presented here is a version of the traditional method of cleaning standard size (608) bearings.
Alternate versions involve different solvents, thus different cups or shaker bottles.
Different solvents may be necessary for certain lubricants (ex. acetone for solid wax).
STEP 1: Remove bearings from wheels
Wheel/bearing setups for one-piece axles, typically speed frames and newer hockey frames, employ a
self-centering spacer, that merely sits between the bearings; it does not extend to the outside of the bearing.
As such, there is nothing to push out the bearing. There exist bearing-pulling tools that are inserted into a bearing
then twisted out, unseating the bearing. If you don't have one, you can use a t-handle allen/hex wrench,
a standard allen/hex, or even a flathead screwdriver and follow the method shown here.
Insert the wrench through one bearing, resting half of the end of the wrench on the inside of the opposide bearing's
inner race, as shown in the following image.
Push hard, taking care that the wrench end does not slip and press against the shield (thus denting it).
For hard-to-unseat bearings, you may need to work your way around the inner race. (push on one side, then the other).
Once unseated, you'll see the self-centering spacer:
Remove the spacer and push the other bearing out with the t-handle, screwdriver handle, or use the wrench to push the
second bearing out as you did the first.
CAUTION!: I don't recommend using your thumb or finger because the bearing can be stuck
in quite well and may require significant force ('causing pain). Additionally, then the bearing pops out,
the finger will be scraped by (or even stuck in) the core of the wheel. Not that it's happened to me...
STEP 2: Removing the bearing shields
Some bearings are designed to be cleaned (servicible), some are not (non-servicible).
And some non-servicible bearings can be serviced, if you don't mind destroying one of the shields.
This article will discuss servicible bearings, with shields retained by c-clips, the most common.
Another article will cover how to service non-servicible bearings: the removal of the shield.
To start, find a pin, awl, punch, or similar tool. I use a small punch that came with a mini-screwdriver set I got in 1985.
Locate the edge of the c-clip; one end is sloped toward the outer edge of the bearing, the other is pointed away.
The latter is the one you want to pick at; you'll see.
This can be the mind-numbing part. Sometimes it's a leveraged pick, sometimes a rotated lift pick. It can vary per
bearing, just take care to watch where that c-clip lands in case it goes flying, because it can. Just keep at it.
If you zoom in on the next pic, you'll see that I've managed to get the c-clip out of the groove it was in.
It does not take much force, just finesse.
These video clips can show the difference between successful and not-so-successful attempts.
Music optional (just happened to have it on).
Unsuccessful video [1min51sec; 22MB]
Successful video [50sec; 10MB] (8s, then 40s of discussion)
Finally with the removal of the shield, the ball bearings and bearing cage are revealed.
To get the shield off, swirl the tool you are using to pic off the c-clips around the edge of the shield,
and if need be, tap the opposite side of the bearing (See successful vid).
STEP 3: Cleaning the bearings
The cleaning process involves
- immersing and agitating the bearings in a solvent to remove the old lubricant, dirt and debris,
- washing the bearing with water (or appropriate liquid) to remove the solvent so it will not affect future lubricant,
- then drying the bearings.
As a solvent, for most grease and oil, I prefer a citrus degreaser. The cheap gel stuff from a hardware store can work
as well as more expensive products; but some can be too watered down for heavier greases.
CAUTION!: Take care in working with powerful solvents/degreasers: they work on skin, not just grease. They can, and will,
damage your skin. Take proper care, work in a well ventilated area and read the directions on the product you are
using. Taking the proper precautions will keep this a relaxing experience. Otherwise... hospital. And pain.
My solvent/degreaser of choice is FinishLine Concentrated Citrus BioSolvent. I use it straight. Works well for me.
No they don't pay me and I don't get any discount. I like the stuff. I don't like Pedro's Oranj Peelz. The one I got
was way too watered down. I used to have a bottle labeled Citrus Degreaser from Economy Hardware in Cambridge, MA.
No brand, just this goo. Worked well. Something like $2 for the 32oz bottle. nice. That could take being watered down
just to be able to work with and into the bearings.
It helps to have a small cup or shaker bottle to work with the bearings in. I cut off thebottoms of 1 or 1.5L bottled water bottles.
I think these are Poland Springs. Zephyrhills, or any other brand for that matter works fine. You can even place two
in the cut out of the bottom of a gallon jug (no pic).
Add enough degreaser to cover the bearings, since they may need to sit (especially after being in rain or water).
24hrs is good. even 72hrs. 9months is not. Yes, I've tried. The solvent evaporates (even when covered), and...
breaks down. Here's an image to get an idea of the fluid level.
No pics for the next part!
One video, though, of agitating the bearing in the solvent. [Video: 3min; 33MB]
The spinning of the bearings allows the solvent to reach all spots on the bearing, as well as loosen dirt and debris.
Spinning with open side down allows the fluid to sweep through the bearing and for the debris to fall out.
Following this part, wash out the solvent by performing the same actions under running water.
The water "activates" the citrus degreaser, noted by the white liquid/foam.
After rinsing out the bearings, spin them to make sure they spin freely. Set them on a towel, open side down,
and tap them to get some water out.
Clean shiny bearings!
Note bearing innards
When all bearings have been washed, wrap them all on the towel and shake vigorously, taking care none fly off
and find exposed glass to break. This gets most of the water out.
Finally, a hair dryer to finish drying the bearings. Use a low setting for plastic, or delrin, bearing retainers.
You can use a high setting for metal retainers. 10sec should evaporate most of the water, 30sec should get all.
One at a time and open side down. Spin the bearings while on top of the hair dryer to unseat and expose all water.
You might also try compressed air canisters.
STEP 4: Lubrication
How much lube depends on intended use, including how long you are willing to go before the next cleaning.
Oil:
Grease:
Wax:
Other:
Described here is grease. I prefer a moderate amount of a lighter grease. I have used with success
FinishLine Professional Bicycle Teflon Grease. It's not fast, but it's not that slow if you don't put too much.
Cleans well, too. Here I'm using a light grease from Kluber, a German lubrication company. Not a skate grease,
not cheap, and probably not easily available, but I'm trying it for a friend.
Using a small flathead screwdriver (from the same '85 kit), apply 3 gobs of grease, enough to coat the inside after
working the bearing and pushing the excess grease into the races. As in the following image sequence:
STEP 5: Reinsert bearings into wheels. All done!
Now that you've greased all the bearings, you're ready to use them.
No need to put the shield you removed back on; just face that side to the inside of the wheel;
however, you will need at least one shield on the bearing when in use to keep dirt and debris out.
If you wish to put the 2nd shield back on, you may wish to clean the shields and clips as you did the bearings.
Once done, sweep the groove for the c-clip with the pin/punch to remove any dirt or debris. Replace the shield.
Then replace the c-clip. It should disappear and look as it did originally. If it does not go into the groove as it did before,
try flipping the c-clip over after sweeping the groove for dirt and debris again.
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